Syrah is one of the world's most magnificent reds, but this classic wine can - if not carefully grown and carefully made -be too much of a good thing; so massive in tannins that it neither drinks well young or develops well with cellaring. Valley of the Moon Winery has a knack for producing Syrah with youthful appeal and fine cellar potential, and the 2004 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Syrah is an excellent example - deeply fruited, yet silky smooth.
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