Prediction in Leather Processing: A Dark Art or a Clear Possibility?Procter Memorial Lecture

摘要

It is possible to go a long way towards predicting the outcome of changes to both chemical and physical processing conditions in leather development. Predicting the effects of beamhouse processing depends on quantifying the hydrolytic reactions which dominate these steps, the removal of components: this is relatively imprecise because currently the reactions are understood only in the broadest terms oranalysis must rely on comparative assessments. Predicting the effects of fixation reactions, the tanning processes; is more certain: analysis requires knowledge of the chemical constitution and reactions of the reagents and an understanding of how all reagents interact both with the substrate and each other. This thinking must extend beyond conventional tanning, to include reactions of all dyes and fatliquors and indeed fixation any other reagent bound to the leather in post beamhouse processing. The link-lock theory of tanning and the stepwise mechanisms of fixation are useful for analysing how the properties of leather are created. Prediction of developmental processing outcomes depends on combining an understanding of the chemistry of leather technology with insights into leather science from the latest thinking about the principles of leather making. Using the analytical thinking in reverse allows processes and even reagents to be predicted and to be created to produce leathers or collagenic biomaterials with predetermined required properties and performance.