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The Men's Fashion Reader

机译:男士时尚读物

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摘要

The common perception of men's fashion reduces the subject to an extremely uniform, functional domain. In particular, the men's suit seems to havernrelegated men's fashion to an uninteresting, one-dimensional manifestation. This garment is only a recent historical invention, however, and it has not always been as comfortable and inconspicuous as it now seems. Padded shoulder and breast, stiff collars, narrow armholes, extremely close-fitting cut and corset-like restraints have conditioned the movement of men much as analogous elements restricted that of women. Sobriety in dress has been equally combined with the use of luxurious adornments and rich fabrics. From a historical perspective, men's fashion presents itself as located at the intersection between functionality and beautification and between sobriety and adornment.
机译:男性时尚的普遍观念将主题限制在极其统一的功能范围内。尤其是,男式西服似乎已将男装降级为一种无趣的一维表现形式。但是,这只是最近的历史发明,并不总是像现在看起来那样舒适和不起眼。衬垫的肩部和胸部,僵硬的衣领,狭窄的腋窝,极其贴身的剪裁和紧身胸衣般的约束条件限制了男人的运动,就像限制女性的运动一样。着装上的清醒与奢华装饰和丰富面料的结合同样得到了体现。从历史的角度来看,男装呈现出自己位于功能性与美化之间,清醒与装饰之间的交汇处。

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  • 来源
    《Journal of design history》 |2009年第4期|423-426|共4页
  • 作者

    Javier Gimeno Martinez;

  • 作者单位

    Postdoctoral Fellow of the Research Foundation-Flanders (FWO) Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Belgium;

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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
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  • 入库时间 2022-08-17 13:59:52

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