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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of cosmetic science >NOVEL PERMANENT HAIR COLORING SYSTEMS DELIVERING COLOR WITH REDUCED FIBER DAMAGE
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NOVEL PERMANENT HAIR COLORING SYSTEMS DELIVERING COLOR WITH REDUCED FIBER DAMAGE

机译:新型永久染发系统,减少纤维损坏,提供色彩

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摘要

Use of permanent hair colorants is widespread and allows the consumer to either change their natural hair celor and/or cover gray. However, there are trade-offs that the consumer has to make if she is using these products on a regular basis. One of the main trade-offs is the fiber damage that is sometimes seen over multiple uses. This can lead to the consumer experiencing poor hair feel, an increased incidence of split ends and generally hair that loses some of its healthy appearance and shine. Thus developing hair colorant systems that allow the consumer to color on a more regular basis yet maintain hair quality is highly desirable.rnThere are two key chemical processes that take place during the coloring process. The first is the oxidation of the melanin pigment and previously deposited dyes that lightens the underlying hair color and the second is the oxidation of the dye precursors to form the coloured chromophores. For both processes the oxidant is essential and in the majority of retail hair colorants the oxidant used is the combination of hydrogen peroxide with an ammonia alkalizer at a final pH of 10. Importantly, it is also the oxidant that is mainly responsible for the damage to the hair fiber which leads to the loss of the hair's strength and healthy appearance.
机译:永久性染发剂的使用很普遍,并且允许消费者改变其自然的发色和/或遮盖灰色。但是,如果消费者定期使用这些产品,则必须权衡取舍。主要的折衷之一是有时在多次使用中会看到光纤损坏。这可能导致消费者体验到不良的头发感觉,增加的开叉发生率,并且通常会使头发失去一些健康的外观和光泽。因此,迫切需要开发一种使消费者能够更规则地进行着色但又能保持头发质量的染发剂体系。在染发过程中发生了两个关键的化学过程。第一个是黑色素颜料和先前沉积的染料的氧化,可减轻下面的头发颜色,第二个是染料前体的氧化以形成有色的发色团。对于这两个过程来说,氧化剂都是必不可少的,在大多数零售染发剂中,所使用的氧化剂是过氧化氢和氨碱化剂的最终pH为10的组合。重要的是,氧化剂也是主要的氧化剂导致头发失去强度和健康外观的头发纤维。

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