A New Skin Whitener (Sodium Palmitoyproline and Nymphea Alba Flower Extract) Capable of Modulating Melanogenisis-Related Genes and to Prevent UV-Induced Pigmentation Through its Soothing Properties

摘要

Skin pigmentation disorders represent a very common problem in both Caucasian and Asian populations. Such anomalies can result either from hypopigmentation, such as in the vitiligo, or from hyperpigmentation, such as in photoaged and/or inflammatory skins. Thus the pro-inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and endothelin-1 (ET-1), which are mainly produced by keratinocytes, can exert paracrine pro-melanogenic activities on melanocytes. However, despite such evidences of the existing link between inflammation and melanogenesis, there are only a few commercial cosmetic lightening molecules which claim a modulatory action on inflammatory skin On the contrary, most of them are often badly tolerated.rnA lot of available lightening products are known to reduce tyrosinase activity by acting on the different upstream intracellular pathways. Other agents can exert their lightening effect via additional or differential modes of action. For instance some of them are known to regulate expression or function of receptors such as PAR-2, which is involved in the melanosomes transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. The microphtalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) also represents an interesting target for such molecules. Thus, a product which would be able to act both directly by decreasing expression of key melanogenesis-related genes and indirectly by preventing inflammation-induced pigmentation would be of great interest. An active molecular association, composed of a Sodium palmitoylproline with a nymphea alba flower extract (SPPNF), is known to have soothing properties. The aim of the study was to determine whether such soothing properties could confer a melanogenesis-modulator activity to SPPNF.