UNDERSTANDING THE INFLUENCE OF EMULSIFIERS, EMOLLIENTS AND ADDITIVES ON LAMELLAR PHASES IN COSMETIC EMULSIONS

摘要

Lamellar phases, formed by combinations of emulsifiers and consistency modifiers such as Stearyl Alcohol or Glyceryl Stearate, are classical tools for stabilizing cosmetic O/W emulsions. Emulsion properties like appearance, texture, sensory aspects, water resistancy, high temperature stability and overall robustness against critical additives depend very much on the nature of these liquid crystalline structures. The formation of liquid crystalline networks in emulsions has systematically been studied for a new PEG-free O/W emulsifier (Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate) and a classical ethoxylated O/W emulsifier (Ceteareth-25) Moreover, the influence of different co-emulsifiers and various types of oils has been examined.