Green ingredients in cosmetic dermatology. Molecular aspects of ingredients and carriers

摘要

In healthy skin keratinocytes provide the essential function of self-renewing themselves, regularly communicating with each other, with dermis and the immune system by a delicate balance of biochemical signals and cellular responsiveness, which slow down during the aging and photoaging phenomena. The main goal of Cosmetic Dermatology is to formulate Clinically Correct Cosmetics based on the use of effective and safe natural active ingredients and carriers, skin and environmentally-friendly. It has been shown by different studies that nanochitin-hyaluronan (CN-HA) and nanochitin-lignin (CN-Lignin) block copolymeric nanoparticles may contemporary act as active carriers and ingredients ameliorating the skin sensible and prematurely aged. On one side they entrap into their structure and load different active ingredients, such as, for example, antioxidant and immunomodu-lant compounds, releasing them at the right skin site at the right time. On the other side they are metabolized from the enzymes to glucosamine, acetyl glucosamine, glucose, hyaluronic acid (CN-HA) or to polyphenols (CN-lignin), and used from the skin cells as raw material and energy useful to repair their damages, caused from the environment and the aging processes. The paper reports some example of the results obtained in vitro and in vivo byte use of CN-HA and CN-Lignin, entrapping different active ingredients, to produce innovative Cosmetics and advanced medications.