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Hair as Race: Why “Good Hair” May Be Bad for Black Females

机译:作为种族的头发:为什么“好头发”可能对黑人女性不利

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Critically examining the relationship between race, Black female beauty, and hair texture, this qualitative study used narratives from 38 Black females between the ages of 19 and 81, to determine messages that communicate hair valuations to Black females, definitions of good and bad hair, and motivations for desiring good hair. A legacy of slavery, hair valuations reflect racially motivated beauty standards that work against Black females. As Chris Rock's Good Hair (2009) illustrates, the connection of hair to beauty intersect with race and gender, placing a particular burden on Black females whose naturally kinky hair textures are low on beauty continuums. Through communication from adults, peers, and males, Black females learn about good and bad hair valuations. However, participants' own descriptions of, and motivations for, good hair are more relevant to maintenance than beauty—bad hair needs straightening, good hair does not. Unstraightened, the shorter, kinky textures can be difficult to comb, style, and manage. Yet, it is the kinkiness that allows the creative diversity of popular Black hairstyles that, paradoxically, makes bad hair particularly good for unstraightened styles. Hair valuations are bad for Black females because they elevate White beauty standards and devalue hair textures common among Black females.View full textDownload full textKEYTERMSBlack hair, color complex, colorism, good and bad hair, kink factor, White beauty standardsRelated var addthis_config = { ui_cobrand: "Taylor & Francis Online", services_compact: "citeulike,netvibes,twitter,technorati,delicious,linkedin,facebook,stumbleupon,digg,google,more", pubid: "ra-4dff56cd6bb1830b" }; Add to shortlist Link Permalink http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/10646175.2011.617212
机译:这项定性研究严格审查了种族,黑人女性美感和头发质地之间的关系,使用了38位年龄在19至81岁之间的黑人女性的叙述,来确定向黑人女性传达头发价值,定义好坏头发的信息,以及想要好的头发的动机。作为奴隶制的遗产,头发的估价反映了针对黑人女性的种族动机的美容标准。正如克里斯·洛克(Chris Rock)的《好发型》(Good Hair,2009年)所说明的那样,头发与美丽的联系与种族和性别相交,这给黑人女性带来了特别的负担,这些黑人女性的自然变态的头发质地对美的影响不大。通过成年人,同龄人和男性的交流,黑人女性可以了解到好发和坏发的估值。但是,参与者自己对好头发的描述和动机与养颜相比,比美容更重要-坏头发需要拉直,好头发则不需要拉直。如果未拉直,则较短的扭结纹理可能难以梳理,定型和管理。然而,正是这种怪异才使流行的黑色发型具有创造性的多样性,反而使坏头发特别适合未拉直的发型。头发估值对黑人女性不利,因为它们提高了白人女性的美丽标准并降低了黑人女性常见的头发质地。查看全文下载全文关键术语黑发,色泽复杂,色彩偏执,好发与不良,纽结因素,白人美容标准相关变量var addthis_config = {ui_cobrand :“ Taylor&Francis Online”,services_compact:“ citeulike,netvibes,twitter,technorati,delicious,linkedin,facebook,stumbleupon,digg,google,more”,pubid:“ ra-4dff56cd6bb1830b”};添加到候选列表链接永久链接http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/10646175.2011.617212

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