Quantitative predictions of beach-face slopes

摘要

Application of dimensional analysis to the major factors responsible for beach-slope changes yields the dimensionless parameter, H_b/g0.5D0.5T, where H_b is the breaking wave height, T is the wave period, D is the sediment grain size, and g is the acceleration due to gravity. Relationships between this parameter and beach-face slope, tan , are determined by using the existing laboratory and field data to yield tan = [0.013/(H_b/g0.5D0.5T)2] + 0.15 for the laboratory and tan = 0.12/(H_b/g0.5D0.5T)0.5 for the field. These equations make possible the prediction of the beach slope.