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BREASTS ARE BACK! COLETTE'S CRITIQUE OF FLAPPER FASHION

机译:布雷斯回来了!科莱特对襟翼时装的批评

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摘要

This paper focuses on Colette's writing for the periodical press, particularly her writing on fashion, and sets out to discuss it in terms of its capacity to effect the high purposes of satire. Its method of reading is contextualizing, rather than immanent — it brings it into relation with a number of issues on which it bears: the history of fashion, the history of the body, generational change, the visual determinants of the fashions of the early twentieth century. Although humour is prominent, Colette is not content merely to make jokes. Ancient satire, which derives from the rhetoric of praise and blame, is the source of literary and art criticism, and Colette borrows both its modes and its vocation to elevate fashion writing to the level of cultural critique. Moralistic, it teaches something about social mores by making fun of them. Hence, Colette makes us laugh at the fact that fashion affects not only clothes, but bodies; style fashions the body and hence the self.
机译:本文重点介绍科莱特在期刊界的写作,特别是她在时装方面的写作,并着手从其对讽刺作品的崇高影响力方面进行讨论。它的阅读方法是情境化的,而不是内在的-它将其与许多问题联系在一起:时尚史,身体史,世代变化,二十世纪初时尚的视觉决定因素世纪。尽管幽默很突出,但科莱特不仅仅满足于开玩笑。古代讽刺是从赞美和指责的言论中衍生出来的,是文学和艺术批评的根源,而科莱特则借用其模式和职业来将时尚写作提升到文化批评的水平。道德主义,它通过取笑于社会习俗,教给他们一些东西。因此,科莱特让我们大笑,时尚不仅影响着衣服,而且影响着身体。风格可以塑造身体,从而塑造自我。

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  • 来源
    《French Studies》 |2006年第3期|335-346|共12页
  • 作者

    Anne Freadman;

  • 作者单位

    University of Melbourne;

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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
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  • 入库时间 2022-08-18 01:17:14

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