Ancient Ireland was said to be full of shape-shifting, a magic world where things constantly transformed themselves—escaping chieftains turned themselves into eagles then divine salmon, as confusion spread. Now the Celtic Tiger is prowling, and the whole country is changing shapes again; with the thatch and donkeys of former days all but vanished, and ever-increasing numbers of wild, ancient places reimagined as the latest versions of golf heaven. For those in search of the unique, few courses anywhere can compete with the magnificence of the Old Head of Kinsale—a four-year-old, 7,100-yard, par-72 extravaganza that will have you slamming past ancient ruins and putting beside sea cliffs sheer enough to make a mountain goat whimper.
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