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Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty

机译:难度相同的路径上攀岩方式对室内攀岩生理反应的影响。

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The objectives of this study were to (1) continuously assess oxygen uptake and heart rate; (2) quantify the extent to which maximal whole-body cardiorespiratory capacity is utilized during climbing on four routes with the same difficulty but different steepness and/or displacement. Fifteen expert climbers underwent a maximal graded exercise test (MT), on a treadmill, in order to assess their maximal physiological capacity. After MT, four sport routes, equal in difficulty rating but different in steepness and/or displacement, were climbed. Oxygen uptake and heart rate were continuously measured. Respiratory exchange ratio (RER) was calculated. Blood lactate concentration and rating of perceived exertion (RPE) were taken before and directly after climbing. Data were expressed as peak values (HRpeak, VO2peak and RERpeak) and as averages over the entire climb (HRavg, VO2avg and RERavg). During climbing, higher HRpeak and HRavg were found in routes with a vertical upward displacement in comparison to traversing routes with a horizontal displacement. The average absolute and relative oxygen uptake was significantly lower in the traversing route in comparison with the three other routes. The traverse is done at a lower percent of the running maximum. Comparing four routes with the same difficulty but different steepness and/or displacement shows that (1) routes with an upward displacement causes the highest peak and average heart rate; (2) routes with a vertical displacement on overhanging wall is physiologically the most demanding; (3) the traverse is physiologically the less demanding.
机译:这项研究的目的是(1)持续评估摄氧量和心率; (2)量化在四个难度相同但陡度和/或位移不同的路线上攀爬过程中最大全身心肺功能的利用程度。 15名专业登山者在跑步机上进行了最大等级的运动测试(MT),以评估其最大的生理能力。 MT之后,攀登了难度等级相同但陡度和/或位移不同的四个运动路线。持续测量氧气摄入量和心率。计算呼吸交换率(RER)。在攀爬之前和之后直接采集血乳酸浓度和感觉活动度(RPE)。数据表示为峰值(HRpeak,VO2 peak和RERpeak),并表示为整个攀登的平均值(HRavg,VO2 avg和RERavg)。在攀爬过程中,与具有水平位移的穿越路线相比,在具有垂直向上位移的路线中发现了更高的HRpeak和HRavg。与其他三个路线相比,该路线的平均绝对和相对氧气摄入量要低得多。遍历以运行最大值的较低百分比进行。比较具有相同难度但陡度和/或位移不同的四个路径表明:(1)向上位移的路径导致最高峰值和平均心率; (2)悬壁上垂直位移的路线在生理上要求最高; (3)遍历在生理上要求较低。

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