When you catch him in good form, it is easy to remember why Abdurrahman Wahid, the nearly-blind Muslim cleric who rules Indonesia, once inspired so much hope. He may be going through the worst days of his 16-month presidency, with angry members of parliament clamouring to impeach him, leagues of veiled women marching to unseat him, and supporters in his power base, East Java, burning down the offices of opposing factions; yet Mr Wahid, leaning calmly across his desk, describes his plight with detachment, a few pearls of wisdom, and the occasional chuckle.
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