Sitting cross-legged in his Abu Ghraib mosque, an island surrounded by sewage, Sheikh Yasseen Zubaie, the Sunni imam, remembers pre-war Iraq with nostalgia. "The council used to pump out the muck every three weeks. Now they promise, and do nothing," he says. War and occupation have made life harder for this town in the Sunni triangle west of Baghdad, where support for the insurgency is strongest. In addition to the sewage, townspeople live with dozens of Estonian troops guarding the market road. At night, power-cuts cloak the city in darkness, except for the arc-lights of Saddam Hussein's largest prison, where most of America's 11,000 prisoners are now detained. Sheikh Zubaie says all his children have diabetes, and he nods at the editorial of a Syrian newspaper now circulating in Iraq. "The foreign occupation of Iraq has destroyed its infrastructure, impoverished its people, dissolved its army and arrested thousands of its sons," it reads.
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