The quick way to Krang Skear forest in Cambodia that the Chinese are logging is to turn off the highway in Kampong Chhnang province, a few hours north of Phnom Penh, bump along a sandy track for 25km and, just as the track peters out, take the train through the scrub for the last 3okm. Or, rather, as the railway built by the colonial French was abandoned years ago, you ride a dolly improvised from a few planks and an old petrol engine, taking the whole affair apart and to one side every time you meet a similar contraption coming the other way.
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