The double-decker tour buses leaving the centre of Cuenca, Ecuador's third city, rarely carry even ten passengers. Yet when Andres and Rocio Molina held a viewing of their two-bedroom house for interested Americans, some 30 boarded a bus provided by the estate agent. For three straight years this city of 330,000 people has topped International Living magazine's ranking of retirement spots. American diplomats say some 5,000 expatriates from the United States, mostly over 55, now live in Cuenca, which has enough colonial and 19th-century architecture to qualify as a unes-co world heritage site.
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