The dilapidated seaside town of Great Yarmouth does not feel like the centre of anything. "We're literally at the end of the line," muses Peter Fitzgerald, referring to the single-track railway that runs across the surrounding marshes. But that is changing, thanks to people like Mr Fitzgerald. As well as running Great Yarmouth's army-surplus shop, he is an activist in the anti-EU, anti-immigration uk Independence Party (ukip). There, and in other quiet coastal towns, Mr Fitzgerald and his like are moulding a lively but disorganised movement into a political machine.
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