Swell-dominant surface waves observed by a moored buoy with a GPS wave sensor in Otsuchi Bay, a ria in Sanriku, Japan

摘要

Real-time monitoring of wind and surface waves in Otsuchi Bay, Iwate, Tohoku, Japan, commenced in October 2012, using a mooring buoy with an ultrasonic anemometer and a single-mode GPS wave sensor. Wind and wave data are distributed hourly in real time via the Internet along with a chart of their time series. We analyzed data monitored in the first 3?months in order to assess the variability and occurrence of wind and waves and to elucidate the main reasons for wave variation in Otsuchi Bay. The monitoring data revealed that surface waves in the bay were predominantly affected by swells propagated from the northeastern offshore region and that the wave height was significantly correlated with the component of wind velocity toward Otsuchi Bay in the northeastern offshore region that faces the bay mouth. The offshore wind field was expected to provide information useful for predicting coastal waves in a ria bay in Sanriku such as Otsuchi Bay. However, it should be emphasized that the horizontal distribution of the offshore wind field which has a significant effect on the surface waves in a ria bay depends heavily on the topographic shape of the bay.