THE MODELLING OF SHORT WAVES IN SHALLOW WATERS COMPARISON OF NUMERICAL MODELS BASED ON BOUSSINESQ AND SERRE EQUATIONS

摘要

Two different flow models of the surf zone wave-current dynamics based on Boussinesq and Serre equations have been implemented and tested. Good results were obtained while testing the models against many diffent wave and current data sets. A preliminary calibration was tried but further activities are required to define the proper parameters.