An investigation of the applicability of a swelling wave simulation using maritime information for disaster prevention

摘要

Recently disasters caused by swells are often occurring around the coastal areas of South Korea. Swells are accompanied with high waves that are approximately 10 m high and these come without particular warning. Thus, it is important to predict swells properly in order to prevent sudden coastal disasters. A systemic method to predict swells has not been established up till now. In this study, we simulated waves using maritime information such as wind, tidal current and deep sea incident wave. The simulated waves were compared with measured waves. Through this process, the applicability of swell simulation by using maritime information was examined. According to the results, when maritime information was considered, the simulation was found to reproduce the height and the changing patterns of swells relatively well.