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Colour Denim - From yesterday till tomorrow

机译:彩色牛仔布-从昨天到明天

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摘要

Until late 70s, denims were mainly dyed with pure Indigo. Bottoming, with sulphur black or Hydron blue dyes, was then introduced to partly replace the expensive Indigo dye. Later, bottoming was adopted to produce Super-dark (or double-dip) denim. In mid-2010s, sulphur black bottoming was used to produce the so-called "Black-Blue denim". Topping was introduced to the market around the same time as bottoming. Initially, topping was done in the si2ing box using direct dyes. Later, in the mid-2000s, topping technique was extended to produce the so-called "Blue-Black denim" (Indigo topped with sulphur black) and "Black-on-Black denim" (sulphur black topped with direct black). In late 80s, tinting (with direct red dyes) was applied to pure Indigo denim to imitate the shade of bromo-Indigo dyed denim from Japan. Then, in rnid-90s, "Vintage look" has gained market acceptance for which dyers use direct dyes (e.g. yellow, brown, black, etc.) to tint abraded (e.g. stone wash) denim for a worn-out effect.
机译:直到70年代末,牛仔布主要是用纯靛蓝染色。然后引入了用硫黑色或氢蓝色染料制成的底漆,以部分替代昂贵的靛蓝染料。后来,采用打底生产超深色(或双浸)牛仔布。在2010年代中期,使用了硫磺黑色打底衫来生产所谓的“黑蓝色牛仔布”。打顶是在触底的同时引入市场的。最初,使用直接染料在选粉箱中完成打顶。后来,在2000年代中期,打顶技术得到扩展,以生产所谓的“蓝黑牛仔布”(靛蓝配以硫黑)和“黑对黑牛仔布”(硫黑色配以直接黑)。在80年代后期,对纯靛蓝牛仔布应用了染色(使用直接红色染料)以模仿来自日本的溴靛蓝染色牛仔布的阴影。然后,在90年代中期,“复古外观”获得了市场的认可,因为染色商使用直接染料(例如黄色,棕色,黑色等)来着色磨损(例如石头洗)的牛仔布以达到磨损效果。

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  • 来源
    《Colourage》 |2013年第10期|4446|共2页
  • 作者

    Andy Fung;

  • 作者单位

    Lanco International Limited;

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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
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