Internal characteristics and numerical analysis of plunging breaker on a slope

摘要

Many investigations about the direct measurement of velocities to clarify the internal mechanism of the breaker have been carried out as a result of recent progress in the measuring techniques. This research attempts to clarify the breaking wave transformation system on a slope by an Experiment and numerical analysis. In an experiment, the velocities in the surf zone were Measured directly using an electromagnetic current meter, and the space distribution characteristic Of the vorticity ω=(du/dy-dv/dx) and the skewness γ=(du/dy+dv/dx) were examined. Also, occurrence situations of the vortices at the time of water mass inrush were measured by Video tape recorder (VTR) image processing.