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Equilibrium beach profiles under breaking and non-breaking waves

机译:制动和不间断波浪下的平衡海滩轮廓

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摘要

Simple theoretical models to determine the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves are presented. For the case of breaking waves, it is assumed that the seaward transport in the undertow is locally balanced by a net vertical sedimentation, so that no bottom changes occur at equilibrium. The parameterization of the water and sediment flux in the surf zone yields a power curve for the equilibrium profile with a power of 2/3, which is in agreement with previous field investigations on surf zone profile shapes. Three different models were developed to derive the profile shape under non-breaking waves, namely (1) a variational formulation where the wave energy dissipation in the bottom boundary layer is minimized over the part of the profile affected by non-breaking waves, (2) an integration of a small-scale sediment transport formula over a wave period where the slope conditions that yield zero net transport determine equilibrium, and (3) a conceptual formulation of mechanisms for onshore and offshore sediment transport where a balance between the mechanisms defines equilibrium conditions. All three models produced equilibrium profile shapes of power-type with the power typically in the range 0.15-0.30. Comparison with field data supported the results obtained indicating different powers for the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves.
机译:提出了简单的理论模型来确定破裂波和非破裂波下的平衡轮廓形状。对于破浪的情况,假定底拖的向海运输是通过净垂直沉降局部平衡的,因此在平衡时不会发生底部变化。在冲浪区中对水和泥沙通量进行参数化,可生成功率为2/3的平衡剖面的功率曲线,这与先前对冲浪区剖面形状的现场研究一致。开发了三种不同的模型来导出不间断波下的轮廓形状,即(1)变式,其中在不间断波影响的部分轮廓上,底部边界层中的波能量耗散最小化(2 )波浪时期内小规模泥沙运移公式的积分,其中产生零净运移的边坡条件确定了平衡,并且(3)陆上和海上泥沙运移机理的概念表述,其中机理之间的平衡定义了平衡条件。这三个模型都产生了幂类型的平衡轮廓形状,幂的典型范围为0.15-0.30。与现场数据的比较支持所获得的结果,表明在破裂波和非破裂波下,平衡轮廓形状具有不同的幂。

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