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Seersucker Unstuffed

机译:未填充的泡泡纱

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Seersucker has long been synonymous with dandyish, Southernish, olderish businessmen who want to look jaunty from April through September. When worn in hot weather, the fabric's white-and-blue (or other candy-colored) stripes aren't just decorative, they're practical. If the material is well-made, its puckered texture prevents the cotton from sticking to sweaty skin. Credit for the style is contentious, but its popularity is often attributed to Joseph Haspel, who began making and selling the fabric to New Orleans haberdasheries in 1909. "Seersucker has traditionally been used for classic suits," says Laurie Aronson, who restarted her great-grandfather's company, Haspel, earlier this year. "But over the years people have learned to wear it in a much more casual way." Rebooting a heritage American brand has become a familiar retail strategy in the past decade, so Aronson didn't simply start selling Haspel's older, boxy striped suits. To freshen it up, she hired designers Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos-of the retro-leaning, six-year-old Shipley & Halmos-to reimagine the priggish textile. Many of the items in the new Haspel line don't look so genteel; those telltale stripes are relegated to the pocket linings of pants and inner seams of tweed jackets. For their update of the classic blazer, they got rid of the white stripes entirely in favor of a more subtle monochrome. It's available this fall-along with trousers-in hunter green, navy, and gray. The partially lined jacket is heavier than linen, lighter than wool, and ideal for these early fall weeks, when it's too warm to go for the full-on flannel suit jacket. Wear it well, even next summer. But, for the love of God, leave the straw hat at home.
机译:泡泡纱长久以来一直是花花公子,南方人,年纪大的商人的代名词,他们希望在四月到九月显得轻松自在。在炎热的天气中穿着时,织物的白色和蓝色(或其他糖果色)条纹不仅具有装饰性,而且实用。如果材料制作精良,则其起皱的质地可防止棉花粘在出汗的皮肤上。对样式的赞誉是有争议的,但其受欢迎程度通常归因于约瑟夫·哈斯佩尔(Joseph Haspel),他于1909年开始将织物制造和销售给新奥尔良小百货。 -祖父的公司Haspel,今年早些时候。 “但是多年来,人们已经学会了以一种更加休闲的方式来佩戴它。”在过去的十年中,重新树立传统的美国品牌已成为人们熟悉的零售策略,因此阿隆森(Aronson)并不仅仅是开始销售Haspel的老式四角条纹西装。为了使外观焕然一新,她聘请了具有六岁年龄的怀旧复古设计师希普利和哈莫斯(Shipley&Halmos)的设计师Sam Shipley和Jeff Halmos来重新构想原版纺织品。 Haspel新生产线中的许多产品看起来都不那么平淡。那些明显的条纹被归类为裤子的口袋衬里和花呢夹克的内缝。为了更新经典西装外套,他们完全摆脱了白色条纹,取而代之的是更微妙的单色。秋季和裤子一起提供,猎人绿色,海军和灰色。局部衬里的夹克比亚麻重,比羊毛轻,并且对于这些初秋的秋天是理想的选择,因为它太温暖了,无法穿上全罩式法兰绒西装夹克。即使在明年夏天也要穿得好。但是,为了上帝的爱,把草帽留在家里。

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  • 来源
    《Business week》 |2014年第4396期|85-85|共1页
  • 作者

    Kurt Soller;

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  • 入库时间 2022-08-17 23:28:05

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