Hanoi, Which Celebrated Its Millennial Anniversary just a few months ago, is a palimpsest of cultures and buildings growing off the banks of the Red River, a flood-prone filament that unspools from the mountains of southern China down to the Gulf of Tonkin. It is a city of ancient, wedding-cake pagodas set on haze-shrouded lakes, of looming stone citadels, of tree-lined French colonial boulevards, and of rice farmers tending paddies in conical straw hats. From the right angle and at the right moment, it is almost impossibly picturesque.
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