电脑提花割圈绒装饰用面料工艺研究

摘要

By using Santoni drawing software and WAC plate making software in combination, the paper devel-ops a new kind of jacquard cut pile fabric with structure effect and color effect on YT-DHLM computerized jacquard pile-cut circular machine. Based on the process principle of products, it introduces in detail the knitting technology by combing the actual production, including raw-material selection, knitting processes and the key points for attention in the equipment debugging, as well as the parameter setting of finishing technology, such as dyeing, carding and napping process and so on. The results show that the fabric made in this paper presents full-ness suede, fine texture and soft hand with obvious structure effect and color effect, which is a kind of unique fabric in the high-grade ornamental weft knitting fabrics.%本文结合圣东尼画图软件和WAC制版软件，在YT－DHLM型电脑提花割圈绒圆纬机上设计开发具有结构效应和色彩效应的提花割圈绒面料。在深入研究提花割圈绒工艺原理的基础上，阐述提花割圈绒产品的工艺设计方法；再结合实际生产，从原料选择、上机工艺、编织调试要点三方面介绍产品织造过程；并重点分析面料染色及梳拉烫剪等后整理主要工艺参数的设置及其对织物风格和花型效果的影响。结果表明，该面料结构效应和色彩效应明显，且绒面丰富、质地细腻、手感柔软，是装饰用布中独特的高档纬编装饰面料。