空气变形纱成纱熵变与外观光泽的关系

摘要

纱线的相对熵值在成纱过程中会发生明显的变化,因其与紊乱度直接相关,所以对纱线的外观光泽也存在较大的影响.为查明变形纱成纱熵变与其外观光泽之间的内在联系和作用方式,选择具有典型紊乱结构,且表面紊乱程度较大的空气变形类型的纱线为对象,对多种规格的原复丝进行了单因子试纺,并做相应测试分析.结果表明,空气变形加工可明显提高成纱结构的紊乱度和相对熵值,而异收缩多重变形也同样可以提高纱线的紊乱度和相对熵值,但增幅相对较小 ;随着相对熵值和紊乱度的增加,变形纱线的峰值反射率和反射率下降,峰宽率增加,光泽柔和,极光减退.%The relative entropy value of yarn changes significantly in the course of filaments texturing. Because it is directly related to disordered degree, it has a remarkable impact on the luster of the yarn. To probe into the inner relationship between texturing entropy change and luster of the yarn as well as acting mode, an air textured yarn ATY with typical disordered structure and greater disordered degree on the surface was chosen as the research subject, and a series of filaments with different specifications were spun on the basis of single factor experiment and tests were conducted accordingly. The results showed that air texturing significantly increases the disordered degree and relative entropy, while the multi-differential shrinking rise these two factors in a softer manner; and along with the rising of relative entropy and disordered degree, the yarns' peak reflectivity and reflectivity go down, peak width gets wider, luster becomes softer, and shinning effect is diminishing.