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经编无缝女束身上衣成形方法研究

     

摘要

在贾卡组织试样拉伸弹性实验的基础上,提出经编无缝女束身上衣最适合的贾卡组织是厚贾卡组织 ;根据束身衣的功能性,设计了束身衣的贾卡组织 ;通过牵拉密度对全红贾卡组织成品密度影响实验,分析得出经编无缝女束身上衣成品尺寸的控制方法 ;通过测试穿着状态下的服装压力,得出经编女束身上农最适宜的穿着横向伸长率为43.70% ~ 57.32%.针对现有经编无缝直筒式成形方法不能体现女性胸腰曲线、不适合女性束身衣织造的问题,提出改变牵拉密度的经编女束身上衣密度收缩成形法,实现了在一次成形时满足女性人体胸腰围差值的要求,从而达到束身的效果.%According to the jacquard elasticity experiment, the paper suggests that the thick jacquard weave is the best choice for the warp knitted tunic blouse. The jacquard weave for tunic blouses is designed based on the functionality of tunic blouses; the size control method of warp knitted seamless tunic blouse is obtained through analyzing the impact of stretching density of the thick jacquard weave on the density of the finished product; and the most suitable transverse elongation for the tunic blouse is figured out as 43.70% to 57. 32% based on the measurement of the garment pressure during wearing. The existing warp knitted seamless tube-like molding method is not suitable for making tunic blouses, because the tube-like blouses can not accentuate the graceful figure of females. Therefore, the paper puts forward a density shrinkage forming method based on changing the stretching density according to certain rules for making tunic blouses, which meets the demand for the size difference between the bust and waist,thus achieving the effect of tunic blouses.

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