针织面料具有的拉伸性、脱散性、回缩性、卷边性、悬垂性等特性,给针织服装款式设计和结构设计带来一定影响.结合实例分析针织服装结构设计与成衣制作过程,得出针织面料特性中的伸缩性和回弹性是影响针织服装纸样设计的主要因素,并直接影响针织服装的规格设计乃至影响到服装最终的造型.针织服装的纸样设计有立体裁剪法、原型法、规格演算法以及基样法等,可根据针织服装款式及结构类型的不同选用相应的纸样设计方法.%Knitting fabric shows the features of scalability,decoherence,retractation,crimping,drapability,which influences the style design and structure design of knitting garments.Based on the structure designing and making of knitting clothing in practice,the author concluded that the scalability and resilience of knitting fabric were the main factors greatly affected pattern design of knitting garment,which directly influenced the specifications and the final model of the knitting clothing.The methods,known as three-dimensional cutting method,prototype method,specifications,base sample method,etc.,can be used in pattern design of knitting clothing.However,proper pattern design method should be chosen according to different styles and structures of knitting clothing.
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