清末民初服饰中'卐、卍'字纹艺术探析

摘要

中国清末民初的传统服饰中"卐、卍"字纹屡见不鲜,无论是平民百姓还是达官贵人,其服饰当中均有体现,其艺术表现形式及丰富的文化艺术内涵被世人喜爱和追捧.文章以江南大学民间服饰传习馆中37件带有"卐、卍"字纹的服装及饰品为研究对象,梳理了"卐、卍"字纹产生与发展的脉络,并且结合史料对清末民初时期服饰中"卐、卍"字纹的结构特点、表现形式、吉祥寓意等进行了整理与分析.进一步总结归纳了服饰中"卐、卍"字纹的形式美感和艺术特征,并从中寻找传统纹样在当代服装设计中的灵感,为后期服装设计的创作与研究提供理论基础.%The pattern"卐,卍" was very common in the traditional Chinese clothing in the late Qing dynasty and the Early Republic of China.The pattern could be found in the clothing of ordinary people or officials, the poor or the rich. Its artistic expression form and rich cultural and art connotations were favored and pursued by people.Based on the 37 pieces of clothes and accessories with the pattern"卐,卍"collected in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University, this paper presents the development of the pattern and analyzes the structures and implied meaning.Furthermore, the study sums up the formation beauty and art characteristics of the pattern"卐,卍" in the clothing to provide inspiration for the modern fashion design as well as the theoretical foundation for the later costume design and research.