高保形棉织物纺纱工艺的研究

摘要

Design points of high shape-retention cotton fabric spinning process were discussed.Taking spinning C 14.6 tex yarn as an example, starting from cotton spinning raw materials, raw material slices from each producing area were analyzed, medium cotton assorting scheme was optimized.Each beater speed in picking process was optimized.Card clothing type and carding gauge were reasonably selected, strengthening operation management, eight different long-staple cotton ratio yarns and their corresponding fabrics were tested finally.The results showed that ironfree property of cotton yarn was better.Parameters of the cotton yarn were cotton fiber diameter 15.5 μm to 16.5 μm, mature fiber ratio 65％ to 85％ and long-staple cotton ratio 75％ to 90％.It is considered that strength, shape retention effect and wrinkle resistance of cotton fabric are enhanced by optimizing cotton raw material.%探讨高保形棉织物纺纱工艺的设计要点.以纺制C 14.6 tex纱为例, 从棉纺原料入手, 对各产地原料切片进行分析, 优选出细绒棉配比方案;优化清棉工序各打手速度, 合理选择梳棉针布类型、梳理隔距, 加强车间管理, 最终对成功纺制的8种不同长绒棉占比纱线及其相对应的织物进行测试.结果表明:采用棉纤维直径为15.5μm～16.5μm、成熟纤维占比为65％～85％、长绒棉占比为75％～90％的纯棉纱线的免烫性能优良.认为:棉纺原料的优选能够提高织物强力和保形效果, 增强织物抗皱效果.