文章采用8种植物染料对羊绒、羊毛、锦纶、蚕丝等4种含酰胺键的纺织纤维进行了染色试验,并对染色结果进行了测试分析。结果表明:植物染料对羊绒的染色K/S值明显大于羊毛,锦纶大多优于真丝;在4种织物中羊绒的染色K/S值普遍较大,部分植物染料对锦纶的染色K/S值最大;蚕丝和锦纶染色的色彩明度大多亮于羊毛和羊绒;蚕丝得色饱和度最高、纯度最大,部分染料在锦纶上的得色纯度高;从色牢度看,植物染料对羊绒、羊毛的耐皂洗色牢度优于锦纶、蚕丝,但是色牢度与染料结构的关系更密切。%In this paper, eight kinds of vegetable dyes were used for dying cashmere, wool, nylon and silk textile whose fibers containing amide bonds, and then the K/S value and soaping fastness were tested. The results show that K/S values of dyed cashmere were significantly higher than that of wool, and K/S values of dyed nylon were mostly higher than that of silk. Further, K/S values of dyed cashmere were the largest among the four fibers, and nylon achieved the largest values with several vegetable dyes. Regarding color brightness, the color of silk and nylon was mostly brighter than that of wool and cashmere. The silk fabric achieved the highest values in the color saturation. Meanwhile, the color saturation of nylon was the largest with some vegetable dyes. Concerning color fastness, the color fastness of cashmere and wool was better than that of nylon and silk. However, color fastness was closely related to the structure of the dyes.
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