Nonlinear Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Shoaling

摘要

Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography, i. e., with an incrementally constant slope. The solution accounts for shoaling, frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions which are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.