High-Order Models of Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave in Water of Varying Depth with Arbitrary Sloping Bottom

摘要

High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of va-rying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article.First,the formal derivations toany high order of μ(=h/λ,depth to deep-water wave length ratio)and ε(=α/h,wave amplitude todepth ratio)for velocity potential,particle velocity vector,pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations forsurface elevation η and horizontal velocity vector U at any given level in water are given.Then,the exactexplicit expressions to the fourth order of μ are derived.Finally,the linear solutions of η,U,C(phase ce-lerity)and C_g(group velocity)for a constant water depth are obtained.Compared with the Airy theory,excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth.The present high-ordermodels are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth(from shal-low to deep)and bottom slope(from mild to steep).