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Status and style in creative industries: The case of the fashion system.

机译:创意产业中的地位和风格:时尚系统。

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摘要

"Creative," "cultural," or "aesthetic" industries, for which creativity and aesthetic values are central, have become an important topic of investigation in economics and social sciences. Uncertainty, which is an essential question for the understanding of all industries, takes a specific form when creativity and aesthetics are involved. In all creative industries, uncertainty is, for producers, about what cultural meanings to offer and, for customers, about what cultural meanings to purchase, two sides of uncertainty respectively called "egocentric" and "altercentric" uncertainty by Joel Podolny. Several institutional and strategic mechanisms exist to reduce uncertainty and allow creative industries to operate. The existing sociological literature on uncertainty and uncertainty reduction in creative industries does not specify the level of uncertainty reached once reduction mechanisms are played out and assumes that these mechanisms are the same across industries. The fashion industry, one of the biggest and most significant creative industries, offers a very relevant setting for the understanding of how uncertainty and uncertainty reduction mechanisms are deployed in a specific industrial context. Fashion-specific institutions such as the fashion show organize the generation of cultural meanings, or styles, in the fashion industry. Styles are attached to fashion houses, which are also ranked in status orderings. The stability and simplicity of status orderings is an indication of low egocentric and altercentric uncertainty, and thus of the success of both institutional and strategic uncertainty reduction mechanisms in fashion, comparatively more than in other industries. Status distinctions are the frame in which styles are generated and controlled.
机译:以创造力和美学价值为中心的“创意”,“文化”或“美学”产业已成为经济学和社会科学领域研究的重要课题。不确定性是理解所有行业的基本问题,当涉及创造力和美学时,不确定性采取一种特定形式。在所有创意产业中,对于生产者而言,不确定性是指要提供什么样的文化含义,对于顾客而言,对于要购买何种文化含义,不确定性的两个方面被乔尔·波多尔尼(Joel Podolny)分别称为“以自我为中心”和“以其他为中心”。存在一些制度和战略机制来减少不确定性并允许创意产业运作。现有的关于创意产业不确定性和不确定性减少的社会学文献并未说明减少机制一旦发挥出来就达到的不确定性水平,并假设这些机制在各个行业中都是相同的。时装业是最大和最重要的创意产业之一,为理解不确定性和不确定性减少机制在特定行业环境中的部署方式提供了非常相关的设置。诸如时装秀之类的针对时尚的机构组织着时装行业中文化意义或风格的产生。样式附加在时装屋上,时装屋也按状态顺序排列。状态顺序的稳定性和简单性表明低自我中心性和非中心性不确定性,因此表明时尚上的制度性和战略性不确定性降低机制都取得了成功,相对于其他行业而言更为明显。状态区别是在其中生成和控制样式的框架。

著录项

  • 作者

    Godart, Frederic Clement.;

  • 作者单位

    Columbia University.;

  • 授予单位 Columbia University.;
  • 学科 Economics Commerce-Business.;Sociology Organizational.;Sociology General.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 2009
  • 页码 246 p.
  • 总页数 246
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类 贸易经济;社会学;
  • 关键词

  • 入库时间 2022-08-17 11:37:42

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