Partitioning of perfume raw materials in conditioning shampoos using gel network technology.

摘要

Gel network technology in conditioning shampoo represents an advantage over traditional silicone 2-in-1 technology due to its main benefits: dry conditioning, wet feel and lower cost. The purpose of this study was to do a proof of principle investigation and to study the main factors that affected partitioning of PRMs into the gel network system shampoos and determine the effect that perfume incorporation had on the shampoo stability of the different formulations. Gel network premixes (literally a conditioner) were formulated then incorporated into a standard shampoo base. Changes in formulation of the gel network such as chain length of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol ratios were done and its effect on stability and perfume migration studied. A technical accord with 25 PRMs with a very wide range of physical properties was used as a marker. Other perfume variables studied were hydrophobicity of the perfume, hydrophobically modified accords, and other user practices such as combing/wetting. The formulations were evaluated for stability using microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry. Compositional analysis was done using GC/MS and headspace analysis. Consumer acceptance was evaluated using sensory panel. The compositional analysis partition data was used in a QSAR model to predict future PRMs tendency to partition into the gel network. Three main conclusions were reached: (1) Hydrophobically modified accords partition favorably into the gel network, however, whether that translates into greater consumer benefit will need to be further tested. (2) PRMs that partition favorably into the gel network follow a structure-property relationship of lipophilicity and rigidity. (3) Changes in processing parameters influence the partitioning of PRMs into the gel network and can be stronger levers than formulations parameters for enhancing perfume bloom and longevity.