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ON SIGNATURES AND FEATURES OF MODULATIONAL INSTABILITY IN OCEAN WAVES

机译:论海浪中调制不稳定的签名与特征

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Modulational instability of nonlinear waves in dispersive environments is known across a broad range of physical media, from nonlinear optics to waves in plasmas. Since it was discovered for the surface water waves in the early 60s, it was found responsible for, or able to contribute to the topics of breaking and rogue waves, swell, ice breakup, wave-current interactions and perhaps even spray production. Since the early days, however, the argument continues on whether the modulational instability, which is essentially a one-dimensional phenomenon, is active in directional wave fields (that is whether the realistic directional spectra are narrow enough to maintain such nonlinear behaviours). Here we discuss the distinct features of the evolution of nonlinear surface gravity waves, which should be attributed as signatures to this instability in oceanic wind-generated wave fields. These include: wave-breaking threshold in terms of average steepness; upshifting of the spectral energy prior to breaking; oscillations of wave asymmetry and skewness; energy loss from the carrier waves in the course of the breaking. We will also refer to the linear/nonlinear superposition of waves which is often considered a counterpart (or competing) mechanism responsible for breaking or rogue waves in the ocean. We argue that both mechanisms are physically possible and the question of in situ abnormal waves is a problem of their relative significance in specific circumstances.
机译:分散环境中的非线性波的调制不稳定性在广泛的物理媒体上是已知的,从非线性光学器件到等离子体中的波浪。由于它被发现在60年代初期的地表水波,因此被发现或能够有助于促进破坏和流氓波的主题,膨胀,冰破碎,波浪电流相互作用,并且也许甚至喷雾生产。然而,由于早期的目的,继续对基本上是一维现象的调制不稳定性在方向波场中是有效的(即现实方向光谱足够窄以维持这种非线性行为)。在这里,我们讨论了非线性表面重力波演化的截然特征,这应该归因于海洋风引导波场中这种不稳定性的签名。这些包括:在平均陡度方面的波浪阈值;在破碎之前振动光谱能量;波浪不对称和偏斜的振动;在突破过程中载波的能量损失。我们还将参考波浪的线性/非线性叠加,这通常被认为是负责海洋中破坏或流氓波的对应(或竞争)机制。我们认为,两种机制都是物理上可能的,并且原位异常波的问题是他们在特定情况下具有相对重要性的问题。

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