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COMPARISON OF NEARSHORE WAVE CHARACTERISTICS BETWEEN THEORIES AND LAB EXPERIMENTS

机译:理论与实验室实验近岸波特征的比较

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The paper describes a short wave model which accounts for wave shoaling, refraction and breaking for the nearshore region. In a more general form this wave model will be suited as a wave driver for nearshore circulation models such as the SHORECIRC (SC) model. The main objective of the present paper is to examine which improvements can be obtained in the prediction of the short wave properties and forcing by using a wave theory more accurate than the sine wave theory used in models such as the REF/DIF1. The model is based on cnoidal wave theory for waves outside surfzone, and on the theory of nonlinear hydraulic bore and semi-theoretical analysis for surfzone waves. The time averaged short wave properties (short wave forcing) which drive nearshore circulation are also formulated. Comparisons to lab experiments show that this model estimates short wave characteristics such as wave height, phase speed and surface profile as well as short wave forcing very well for nearshore waves.
机译:本文描述了一种短波模型,用于近岸地区的波浪挖掘,折射和破碎。在更一般的形式中,该波模型将适用于用于近岸循环模型的波驱动器,例如Shorecirc(SC)模型。本文的主要目的是检查在预测短波特性的预测中可以获得哪些改进,并通过使用波理论更准确地比诸如REF / DIF1的模型中使用的正弦波理论更准确。该模型是基于Surfzone外部波浪的CnoidaL波理论,以及对鼻梁波的非线性液压孔和半理论分析的基础。还配制了驱动近于血液循环的时间平均短波属性(短波强制)。对实验室实验的比较表明,该模型估计了近岸波的短波特性,如波浪高,相速和表面型材以及短波迫使近岸波浪。

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