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Doing Well or Just Looking Good?

机译:做得好还是看起来好?

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摘要

The topic of sustainability in apparel, footwear and textiles in general is a hot one. More is being discussed, conferences are booming, standards and certifications are proliferating, innovations are occurring, books are multiplying, and corporate sustainability reports are winning awards for their prose, never mind their content... Yet, consumers are consuming like never before. And although the apparel and footwear market contributed $361 Billion to the U.S. economy in 2013-more than most any other industry-the average American family spends less and less of its disposable income on apparel and footwear. It is down to about 3% of total income from 12% in 1950, 20% in 1901. Meanwhile, oil is cheap again so synthetic feed stocks and inputs are proliferating. We are seeing a resurgence of the chemical industry in North America, to the tune $100 billion in USA alone. Further, the emergence of the middle class in other regions of the world is accelerating consumption at staggering rates. Recycling is up, but so isn't trash. Meanwhile, consumers and citizens, globally, are growing in their awareness of the adverse effect the textile industry has on the planet. They believe that companies, namely brands and retailers, must be accountable. But what role does the consumer play? What about the rest of the supply chain? How does consumer demand influence dirty chemistry and manufacturing practices in many places across the planet? The industry and value chain has evolved over centuries with reward structures ebbing and flowing to meet market demands. The truth is that regarding sustainability, we collectively are still very immature in our ability to comprehensively understand and measure our impact, never mind appropriately reward it.
机译:一般而言,服装,鞋类和纺织品的可持续性是一个热门话题。讨论越来越多,会议日趋繁荣,标准和认证激增,创新不断涌现,书籍不断增多,企业可持续发展报告因其散文赢得了奖项,不管它们的内容如何……然而,消费者的消费从未像现在这样。尽管服装和鞋类市场在2013年为美国经济贡献了3,610亿美元,比大多数其他行业都要多,但美国平均家庭在服装和鞋类上的可支配收入却越来越少。它从1950年的12%,1901年的20%下降到总收入的约3%。同时,石油价格又便宜了,因此合成原料和投入物正在激增。我们看到北美的化学工业正在复苏,仅在美国就达到了1000亿美元。此外,中产阶级在世界其他地区的出现正在以惊人的速度加速消费。回收起来了,但垃圾也没有。同时,全球的消费者和公民对纺织工业对地球的不利影响的意识正在增强。他们认为,公司(即品牌和零售商)必须承担责任。但是,消费者扮演什么角色?其余的供应链又如何呢?消费者需求如何影响地球上许多地方的肮脏化学物质和制造实践?行业和价值链已经发展了数百年,其奖励结构不断变化并不断涌现,以满足市场需求。事实是,就可持续性而言,我们在全面理解和衡量影响方面的能力仍然很不成熟,不要介意适当地对其进行奖励。

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