SUMMERTIME MORPHODYNAMICS OF TWO BEACHES PRESENTING DIFFERENT WAVE EXPOSURE – FAIAL ISLAND, AZORES, PORTUGAL

摘要

This contribution presents the results of intensive field surveys executed during late spring and summer 2004 along two pocket beaches located in the northwestern and eastern coast of the Faial island (Azores archipelago, Portugal). The main purpose of this study was to characterize the morphodynamics of these two beaches by associating the short-term evolution of a couple of beach profiles, monitored on a fortnight basis, with the wave climate and wave refraction model output. Study shows that both these beaches are undergoing rapid and significant phases of accretion/erosion during summer time in relation with growing sea state. Also, fast beach rotation has been noted. Although these two beaches are located to the west and to the east of the island and despite the prominence of westward waves and winds, their evolution appears simultaneous. This manuscript constitutes the first step towards achieving a comprehensive understanding of beach morphodynamics in the Azores.