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Theoretical Prediction for Vertical Distribution of Undertow in Surf Zone on Sloping Bottom

机译:倾斜底部海浪带底拖垂垂向分布的理论预测

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The purpose of the present paper is to establish the theoretical predictions for the vertical distribution of the undertow inside surf zone. The basic equation of these analytical predictions is based on an eddy-viscosity model and on an assumption that the average shear stress over a wave motion could be described in terms of the different linear function of the vertical distance from the sloping bottom (z′) at the two separate regions, which are the upper side and the lower one of the level of the wave trough. In order to solve this basic equation for these analytical predictions of the vertical profile of the undertow, the surface and bottom boundary conditions are given by evaluating the surface vorticity and the bottom mass transport velocity, respectively. According to the analysis, the present theoretical results are in much better agreement with experimental ones rather than those of the other researchers'. The surface vorticity has stronger influences on characteristics of the vertical distribution of the undertow in the surf zone rather than the bottom mass transport velocity, and plays an important role in the present phenomenon.
机译:本文的目的是为水下拖曳在冲浪区内的垂直分布建立理论预测。这些分析预测的基本方程式基于涡流粘度模型,并且假设可以根据距倾斜底部(z')的垂直距离的不同线性函数来描述波浪运动的平均切应力。在两个单独的区域,分别是波谷水平面的上侧和下侧。为了解决这些基本方程式,以进行对地下垂直剖面的这些分析预测,分别通过评估表面涡度和底部物质传输速度来给出表面边界条件和底部边界条件。根据分析,目前的理论结果与实验结果相比,远好于其他研究人员的结果。表面涡度对冲浪区底拖的垂直分布特征的影响比对底部物质传输速度的影响更大,并且在目前的现象中起着重要的作用。

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