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Observations and modeling of wave-acceleration-induced sediment transport in the surfzone

机译:波浪加速度引起的冲浪区沉积物运移的观测和模拟

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摘要

Onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration are important to the morphological evolution of beaches, but are not understood well. Here, a new model that accounts for accelerations of wave-orbital velocities predicts onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach. In both the observations and the model, the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change. A model that combines the effects of transport by waves and mean currents simulates both onshore and offshore bar migration observed over a 45-day period. A stochastic nonlinear Boussinesq model for the evolution of waves in shallow water is coupled with the wave-acceleration-driven sediment transport model to predict observed onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration given observations of the offshore wave field and initial bathymetry. The Boussinesq-wave model has skill in predicting wave spectra, as well as velocity and acceleration statistics across the surfzone, but it underpredicts acceleration skewness on top of the sandbar. As a result, the coupled wave-sediment transport model underpredicts sediment transport, and thus fails to move the sandbar onshore. Although the coupled wave and sediment model can be tuned to yield skillful predictions of onshore sandbar migration, in general, closer agreement between observed and modeled statistics of the wave field is essential for the successful application of wave models to predict sediment transport.
机译:陆上沉积物的运输和沙洲的迁移对海滩的形态演变很重要,但人们对此并不了解。在这里,一个解释波浪轨道速度加速的新模型可以预测在海滩上观察到的陆上沙洲迁移。在观测值和模型中,最大加速度诱发的运输的位置都随沙洲向岸移动,从而导致波浪和形态之间的反馈,从而将沙洲推向岸,直到条件改变为止。一个结合了波浪运输和平均水流影响的模型可以模拟在45天的时间内观察到的陆上和海上钢筋迁移。结合浅海波浪演化的随机非线性Boussinesq模型与波浪加速驱动的泥沙运移模型相结合,在对近海波浪场和初始测深法进行观测的基础上,预测观察到的陆上泥沙运移和沙洲迁移。 Boussinesq-波模型具有预测波谱以及跨海浪区域的速度和加速度统计信息的技能,但是它预测沙洲顶部的加速度偏斜度不足。结果,耦合的波浪-沉积物传输模型低估了泥沙的传输,因此无法将沙洲移动到岸上。尽管可以将波浪和沉积物模型耦合以进行陆上沙洲迁移的熟练预测,但总的来说,对于成功应用波浪模型预测沉积物运移而言,观测到的波场统计数据与建模波场统计数据之间的密切一致是至关重要的。

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