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Comfort related properties of commercial apparel fabrics containing natural and man-made fibres

机译:与天然纤维和人造纤维相关的商业服装面料的舒适性

摘要

The relationship between the fabric parameters, as independent variables, and the comfort related properties, as dependent variables, of commercial suiting fabrics, containing both natural and man-made fibres, have been studied. The fabric parameters measured in the study were mass, thickness, density, and air permeability. The comfort related properties, tested on a Permetest instrument, included water vapour permeability, water vapour resistance, and thermal resistance, with the moisture permeability index being derived. A total of 26 commercial suiting fabrics, covering a wide range of mass, as well as different fibre types and blends and fabric structures, was tested. The fibres covered, included wool, polyester, viscose, and cotton, while the fabric structures covered were 1x1 plain weave, 2x1 twill and 2x2 twill weave. The objectives of this study were to determine the empirical relationships between the measured fabric properties and the measured comfort related properties, and to determine the role, if any, of fibre type and fabric structure, since many claims are made in practice concerning the relative advantages, in terms of comfort, of a specific fibre type or blend, or fabric structure, over others, some of which being supported by research results. Since the fabrics covered, were commercial and were not engineered so that the different fabric parameters (independent variables) and fibre type and blend, as well as fabric structure could be varied independently of each other, the effects of the various fabric parameters on the fabric comfort related properties were determined and quantified by multiple regression analyses (multi-linear and multi-quadratic), and the best fit regression equations, and contribution of each parameter to the overall fit established. It was found that fabric thickness and fabric mass had the largest effect on the comfort related properties as measured here, fabric mass determining, to a large extent, water vapour permeability, and fabric thickness, thermal resistance. The rest of the fabric parameters included in the study had only a relatively small effect on the measured comfort related properties. The influence of fabric parameters, with particular reference to mass and thickness, on the measured comfort related properties, were much greater than that of fibre type or blend, or fabric structure. It was, therefore, concluded from this study, that the fabric parameters, as opposed to the intrinsic characteristics of a particular fibre, whether natural or man-made, largely determined those fabric comfort related properties measured here.
机译:已经研究了既包含天然纤维又包含人造纤维的商用西服织物的织物参数(作为自变量)和舒适相关特性(作为因变量)之间的关系。在研究中测量的织物参数是质量,厚度,密度和透气性。在Permetest仪器上测试的与舒适性相关的特性包括水蒸气渗透率,水蒸气阻力和热阻,并得出了水分渗透指数。总共测试了26种商用西服面料,涵盖了广泛的质量范围,以及不同的纤维类型,混合物和织物结构。覆盖的纤维包括羊毛,聚酯,粘胶纤维和棉,而覆盖的织物结构为1x1平纹,2x1斜纹和2x2斜纹。这项研究的目的是确定所测量的织物性能与所测量的舒适性相关的经验关系,并确定纤维类型和织物结构的作用(如果有的话),因为在实践中提出了许多有关相对优势的主张。在舒适性方面,特定纤维类型或混合物或织物结构优于其他纤维,其中一些得到研究结果的支持。由于所覆盖的织物是商用织物,并且未经工程设计,因此可以彼此独立地改变不同的织物参数(独立变量),纤维类型和混纺以及织物结构,各种织物参数对织物的影响通过多次回归分析(多线性和二次),最佳拟合回归方程以及每个参数对整体拟合的贡献,确定并量化了与舒适性相关的属性。发现织物厚度和织物质量对舒适度相关性能的影响最大,如本文所测量的,织物质量在很大程度上决定了水蒸气渗透性以及织物厚度,耐热性。研究中包括的其余织物参数对所测得的舒适度相关性能的影响相对较小。织物参数(特别是质量和厚度)对所测得的舒适度相关特性的影响远大于纤维类型或混合物,织物结构的影响。因此,从这项研究得出的结论是,与特定纤维(天然或人造纤维)的固有特性相反,织物参数在很大程度上决定了此处测量的那些与织物舒适性相关的性能。

著录项

  • 作者

    Stoffberg Marguerite Ester;

  • 作者单位
  • 年度 2013
  • 总页数
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 English
  • 中图分类

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