Мода як форма владиud(Fashion as a Form of Power)

摘要

У статті пропонується філософсько-культурологічна інтерпретація взаємодії моди та влади. Подаєтьсяudкоротка історія міждисциплінарних студій, де аналізується мода як форма влади в культурі. Осмислюються різні культурні інваріанти влади у дискурсі моди, зокрема у структурі табу, механізмі контролю над жіночим/чоловічим тілом, і форми екзистенційної ілюзії ідеального життя. Робиться висновок, що мода імпліцитно містить владні інтенції, адже в кожну історичну добу диктує модель поведінки в суспільстві, задає шляхи ідентичності, а також окреслює межі людської тілесності у форматі культурно-естетичного канону.ud(The article deals with the philosophical, cultural interpretation of the interplay between fashion and power. It gives a brief history of interdisciplinary studies, which analyzes fashion as a form of power in culture. Among the most common fashion studies should distinguish philosophy, sociology, which reveals the existence of an institutional nature of fashion. On the other hand, the theory of power in culture is very important part for interpretation, especially the option of Michel Foucault, whose methodology is actual in the article. The hidden mechanisms of manipulation body through fashion were detected trhough combinination of philosophy, cultural studies and anthropology. Every cultural epoch products own special discourse over the human body, through implementing specific fashion role models.udIn order to understand fashion as a form of power, it is necessary to define the basic functions of the fashion culture.udSuch cultural functions as adaptive and integrative are essential for fashion circulation. These two features indicate a twofold power intentions fashion, thanks to her person defines their identity, but at the same time each time it changes.udSpecial modus fashion is its informative, which inadvertently creates discursive function. Since discourse is directly related to power, the control of the human body is made through it.udThe essential cultural invariants power in the discourse of fashion is also analyzed, especially in the structure ofudtaboos mechanism of control over the female/male body shape and ideally existential illusion of life. It is concluded that implicitly contains authoritative fashion intentions, because every day dictates historical pattern of behavior in society defines ways identity and defines the limits of human physicality in the form of cultural and aesthetic canon.udThus, fashion is a kind of cultural category that realizes itself not everywhere and not totally, so we can fix nonimmanent status of fashion in culture. This position is not necessary to attract the power that is directly related to culture.udIn other words, culture is a pure form of power since the first days. It involves the structure of their values, symbols and general rules. Already being within the culture, there is a more subtle mechanism of control over the body in which fashion plays an important matter.)