Wave Energy Dissipation of Waves Breaking on a Reef with a Steep Front Slope

摘要

The Transformation of waves propagating over a steep bottom slope is of great importance regarding the coastal processes in the near-shore area.This study will contribute with tools to predict the dissipated wave energy for irregular waves passing a steep submerged slope. An extensive number of test with regular and irregular waves breaking over a steep bottom slope have been performed in the Hydraulics & Coastal Engineering Laboratory, Aalborg University. Based on these experimental data formulae have been developed capable of predicting he transmitted wave energy over steep slopes.