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The control of wind and waves on sediment transport asymmetry and the long-term morphological development of estuaries

机译:风浪对泥沙输移不对称的控制及河口的长期形态发育

摘要

Most theories on the equilibrium shape of estuarine basins highlight the dominance of tidal asymmetry in controlling the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic feedbacks that ultimately lead to a stable morphological state. This thesis uses field measurements, numerical modelling and sediment deposition records to investigate how waves interact with tidal processes and how these interactions influence sediment transport and the non-linear feedbacks between hydrodynamics and estuarine basin morphology.Numerical modelling experiments were conducted over a series of idealised estuaries representing different stages of infilling, which show that wind and waves are far more efficient than tides at shaping intertidal areas, with the effect being subtly dependent on the depth distribution in the intertidal. Moreover, the wind and wave climate can substantially alter the hydrodynamic regime over the entire estuary and in intertidal areas can exert a much greater control on asymmetry than tidal currents alone, which dominate in the deeper channels. Under the effect of tides alone, currents over intertidal flats are to found to remain flood-dominant as the estuary infills, thus promoting continued accretion until tidal currents become too weak to entrain sediment. Therefore, estuaries with only tidal currents are likely to evolve into in-filled areas of salt-marsh or mangrove with drainage channels, whereas fetch-aligned estuaries (in which wind-waves are common) have a greater probability of attaining deeper hydrodynamically-maintained stable intertidal areas. Although waves have little direct influence on hydrodynamics within the subtidal channel, the tidal asymmetry is controlled by the height and volume of the intertidal areas and therefore is indirectly influenced by wave activity.The higher-energy, infrequent storm-wave events can considerably modify estuarine morphology over short timescales whereas lower-energy but perpetual effects like the tides operate continuously and so the relative contribution of such events in shaping the long-term morphological evolution can be considered on a range of timescales. Within this thesis a combination of hydrodynamic measurements, sediment deposition records and numerical modelling are used to determine the conditions under which observed waves are morphologically significant. Morphological significance is defined as when waves influence tidal and suspended sediment flux asymmetry and subsequently infilling over geomorphological timescales. By comparing a fetch-aligned and a non fetch-aligned mesotidal basin, it is shown that for a sufficiently large fetch, even small and frequently occurring wind events are able to create waves that are morphologically significant. Conversely, in basins with a reduced fetch, wave events are less frequent and therefore of far less morphological significance. The role of tidal range in controlling sediment transport is investigated through consideration of its influence on bed shear stress, τmax. The decrease in bed shear stress associated with greater water depths is compared to increases owing to the larger fetch that accompanies the increased tidal range and the generally stronger currents associated with larger tidal range. Here, it is shown that during neap tides the reduction in water depths around high water and tidal currents are not offset by the reduction in fetch. Thus, it is shown that the basin-averaged τmax is similar during both spring and neap tides in addition to the shorter duration of slack water during neap tides. Consequently, as τmax is lower in the subtidal channel during neaps, the sediment gradient (and hence sediment transport potential) between tidal flats and channels is greater. Thus it is concluded that sediment deposition potential may actually be increased during a neap tide. This result is in sharp contrast to previous observations from microtidal wave-dominated environments, in which differences between spring and neap result in increased erosion during spring tides. Overall, this thesis shows that short period locally generated waves can be considered a morphologically significant hydrodynamic process within estuaries. With increased fetch, waves become more morphologically significant relative to tides as even low, frequent wind speeds are able to generate waves that are capable of controlling patterns of sediment transport.
机译:关于河口盆地平衡形状的大多数理论都强调了潮汐不对称在控制最终导致稳定形态状态的流体动力和形态动力反馈方面的优势。本文利用现场测量,数值模拟和泥沙沉积记录来研究波浪如何与潮汐过程相互作用,以及这些相互作用如何影响泥沙输送以及流体动力学和河口盆地形态之间的非线性反馈。对一系列理想化的数值模拟实验进行了代表充填不同阶段的河口表明,在形成潮间带区域时,风和波浪比潮汐要有效得多,其影响还取决于潮间带的深度分布。此外,风浪气候可以大大改变整个河口的水动力状况,并且在潮间带,与单独的潮流相比,对不对称性的控制要强得多,而在潮流更深的河道中占主导地位。在潮汐的作用下,潮间带上的洋流被发现仍是河口填充物的主要洪水,因此促进了持续的积聚,直到潮汐流变得太弱而无法夹带沉积物。因此,仅具有潮流的河口很可能演变成带有排水通道的盐沼或红树林的填充区,而与河床对齐的河口(风浪很常见)具有更大的可能性来获得更深的水动力维持潮间带稳定。尽管波浪对潮间带内的水动力几乎没有直接影响,但潮汐的不对称性受潮间带区域的高度和体积的控制,因此间接受到波浪活动的影响。高能,不频繁的风暴浪事件可大大改变河口。短时间尺度上的形态学研究,而能量较低但永久性的影响(如潮汐)则连续运行,因此可以在一定的时间尺度上考虑此类事件对长期形态演化的相对贡献。在本文中,结合水动力测量,沉积物沉积记录和数值模拟来确定观测波在形态上具有重要意义的条件。形态学意义定义为波浪何时影响潮汐和悬浮泥沙通量的不对称性,并随后在地貌学时标上填充。通过比较一个取指对齐和一个非取指对齐的中生盆地,可以看出,对于足够大的取指,即使是很小且频繁发生的风事件也能够产生形态学上显着的波浪。相反,在取水减少的盆地中,波浪事件的发生频率较低,因此形态学意义也较小。通过考虑潮汐范围对河床切应力τmax的影响,研究了潮汐范围在控制泥沙运移中的作用。与更大的水深相关的河床剪切应力的下降与上升的趋势相比有所增加,这是由于随着潮汐范围的增加而取水量更大,而与更大的潮汐范围相关的电流通常更大。此处显示,在潮汐期间,高水位附近的水深和潮汐流的减少不会被取水量的减少所抵消。因此,表明在春季和春季潮汐期间,盆地平均τmax相似,此外在春季潮汐期间的松弛水持续时间较短。因此,由于在潮汐潮汐下潮汐道中的τmax较低,潮滩和河道之间的泥沙坡度(以及因此产生的泥沙输送潜力)更大。因此可以得出结论,在小潮期间,沉积物的沉积潜力实际上可能会增加。该结果与以前在微潮波主导环境中的观察结果形成鲜明对比,在微潮波主导环境中,春季和春季之间的差异导致春季潮汐期间侵蚀增加。总体而言,本论文表明,在河口内,短期内局部产生的波可被认为是形态学上重要的水动力过程。随着取水量的增加,波浪相对于潮汐在形态上变得更加重要,因为即使是较低的频繁风速也能够产生能够控制沉积物传输方式的波浪。

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    Hunt Stephen;

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