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Sneakerheads: influencers of industry or insignificant insiders? A business history on the collectible sneaker market

机译：运动鞋：行业的影响者还是微不足道的内部人士？收藏运动鞋市场的业务历史

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The collectible sneaker market started out as a small group of fashion-forward hobbyists and grewto become a multi-billion dollar industry. Behind this new market category was a group ofprotagonists called sneakerheads who inadvertently created a social movement that unmasked andultimately helped quell innate social tensions within the United States. The purpose of this study isto understand the business history behind this new market category, specifically to identify the roleof sneakerheads during the birth of sneaker subculture as well as their continuing influence on thedirection of the industry.Narrative inquiry is used as the method for conducting empirical research in this study. Threeinterviewees and a total of eight interviews were carried out, with each interviewee representingspecific aspects of sneaker subculture: Sneakers as a business, as a subject of journalism, and as ahobby. Transcripts of the interviews were analyzed using thematic analysis with the results groupedchronologically in order to follow rules of temporality in story-telling.The study indicates that sneakerheads were responsible for the birth of sneaker subculture but tooka passive role in advancing the movement. Instead, Nike spotted the opportunity early on andlaunched a product in the 1980s that would enable the subculture to transcend the boundaries ofthe inner-city and propel it into a phase of mass marketization. Sneakers became popular becausethey spoke to myths on socioeconomic mobility, individuality, survival, and the desire for fame andfortune. Then, sneaker subculture entered a resurgence in popularity with the rise of the internet inthe late 1990s. The internet contributed in two key ways: 1) It enabled anyone with an internetconnection to become a participant in sneaker subculture and 2) It enabled shoe manufacturers tokeep a pulse on the industry and anticipate trends by hiring influencers. The end result in the massmarketization of sneaker subculture was that the term sneakerhead itself became devoid of meaningand the authenticity and virtues behind the subculture began to erode.

机译：可收藏的运动鞋市场最初是由一小群时尚前卫的爱好者开始的，后来发展成为一个价值数十亿美元的产业。在这个新市场类别的背后，是一群被称为运动鞋的主角，他们无意间发起了一场社会运动，揭露了这场运动，并最终帮助平息了美国内部固有的社会紧张局势。这项研究的目的是了解这种新市场类别背后的业务历史，特别是确定在运动鞋亚文化诞生期间运动鞋的作用以及它们对行业发展方向的持续影响。叙事探究被用作进行实证研究的方法本研究中的研究。共进行了3次访谈，共进行了8次访谈，每位受访者代表了运动鞋亚文化的特定方面：运动鞋既是企业，新闻业还是业余爱好。为了符合故事情节中的时间性规律，采用主题分析法对访谈记录进行了分析，并按时间顺序对结果进行了分组。研究表明，鞋履负责人运动鞋亚文化的产生，但在推动运动中起了被动作用。相反，耐克尽早发现了机会，并在1980年代推出了一种产品，该产品将使亚文化超越城市中心的边界，并使其进入大众市场化阶段。运动鞋之所以受欢迎，是因为他们谈到了关于社会经济流动性，个性，生存以及对名利的渴望的神话。然后，随着互联网在1990年代后期的兴起，运动鞋亚文化开始重新流行。互联网以两种主要方式做出了贡献：1）使互联网连接的任何人都可以成为运动鞋亚文化的参与者； 2）使鞋类制造商对行业保持关注并通过雇用有影响力的人来预测趋势。运动鞋亚文化大众化的最终结果是，运动鞋头这个词本身就失去了意义，并且亚文化背后的真实性和美德开始受到侵蚀。

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Laitasalo Riku;
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Sneakerheads: influencers of industry or insignificant insiders? A business history on the collectible sneaker market

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