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Optimisation de la conservation des cosmétiques : impact de la formulation, recherche de nouveaux conservateurs naturels, encapsulation

机译:优化化妆品保存:配方的影响,寻找新的天然防腐剂,封装

摘要

Looking for innovation, cosmetic industry used even more new materials. Natural products are specially used. Our study evaluated the impact of cosmetic formulations on microbial developments. Then, a natural antimicrobial ingredient for cosmetics was developed. One vegetal extract was particulary studied. It was optimized for an easy introduction in cosmetic products. Antimicrobial activity of the natural extract was confirmed with challenge test. As some metabolites of the interesting extract could be instable in specific conditions and as natural preservatives are often less actives than the synthetics ones, an encapsulated system was developed. Vegetal extracts are complex mix of differents molecules. that is why, the encapsulated system was first developed with the standards: rutin and naringenin. A multilamellar vesicles system was developed and optimized. Particles sizes, encapsulation and adsorption yields, leak kinetik, biological test of activity and cosmetic incorporation were done to validate the model. Finally, the encapsulated system was applied with success for the encapsulation of the natural extract.
机译:为了寻求创新,化妆品行业使用了更多的新材料。天然产品是专门使用的。我们的研究评估了化妆品配方对微生物发育的影响。然后,开发了用于化妆品的天然抗菌成分。特别研究了一种植物提取物。它经过优化,可轻松引入化妆品。通过攻击试验证实了天然提取物的抗菌活性。由于有趣的提取物的某些代谢产物在特定条件下可能不稳定,并且由于天然防腐剂的活性通常低于合成防腐剂,因此开发了一种封装系统。植物提取物是不同分子的复杂混合物。这就是为什么封装系统首先使用芦丁和柚皮苷的标准开发的原因。开发并优化了多层囊泡系统。进行了粒径,包封和吸附产率,泄漏动力学,活性的生物学测试和化妆品掺入以验证该模型。最后,成功地将包囊的系统应用于天然提取物的包囊。

著录项

  • 作者

    Kerdudo Audrey;

  • 作者单位
  • 年度 2014
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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 fr
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