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Desenvolvimento de emulsões contendo extrato de Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess e avaliação clínica da eficácia hidratante

机译:含有巴西甘蓝提取物的乳液的研制和保湿效果的临床评价

摘要

Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess specie, belonging to the Crassulaceae family, presents flavonoids, polysaccharides and ascorbic acid in its chemical composition. These compounds are generally used in cosmetics formulations as antioxidants, moisturizers and anti-aging properties. This research aimed to development moisturizing emulsions add or not with hydroethanolic extract of the Kalanchoe brasiliensis leaves and evaluated its moisturizing clinical efficacy. Formulations have been developed with different concentrations of Sodium Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Lauryl Glucoside (Novemer™EC-2 polymer), incorporated to Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol® Ultrez-20). The formulations were added or not with plant extract 0.5% (w/w) and subjected to accelerated stability tests. In accelerated stability study, the samples were stored at different temperatures for 90 days. The organoleptic characteristics, pH and rheological behavior were evaluated. The formulation containing 3.0% Novemer™EC-2 and 0.4% Carbopol® Ultrez-20 added with hydroethanolic extract of K. brasiliensis 0.5% was considered stable. Moisturizing clinical efficacy was evaluated by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies. The formulation containing extract compared to vehicle promoted increase significantly statistical of the water content of the stractum corneum and decrease of transepidermal water loss, promoting barrier effect until five hours after single application of the formulation. The emulsion developed with 0.5% of hydroethanolic extract of K. brasiliensis leaves presented moisturizing efficacy acting possibly by occlusion and humectation mechanisms, demonstrating potential use as a moisturizing cosmetic product.
机译:属于景天科的巴西长寿甘蓝(Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess)物种在其化学成分中呈现出类黄酮,多糖和抗坏血酸。这些化合物通常用作抗氧化剂,保湿剂和抗衰老特性的化妆品配方。这项研究旨在开发添加或不添加巴西甘蓝叶的氢乙醇提取物的保湿乳液,并评估其保湿临床功效。已开发出含有不同浓度的丙烯酸钠/ Beheneth-25甲基丙烯酸酯交联剂(和)氢化聚癸烯(和)月桂基葡糖苷(Novemer™EC-2聚合物)的配方,将其掺入丙烯酸酯/ C10-30丙烯酸烷基酯交联剂(Carbopol®Ultrez- 20)。配方中是否添加了0.5%(w / w)的植物提取物,并进行了加速稳定性测试。在加速稳定性研究中,样品在不同温度下保存90天。评价了感官特性,pH和流变行为。含有3.0%Novemer™EC-2和0.4%Carbopol®Ultrez-20以及0.5%的巴西克鲁维酵母的氢乙醇提取物的配方被认为是稳定的。通过电容和表皮失水方法评估保湿临床疗效。与溶媒相比,含有提取物的制剂促进了角质层水分含量的统计显着增加,并且表皮水分流失的减少,促进了屏障作用,直到单次施用制剂后五小时。用0.5%的巴西克鲁斯叶的氢乙醇提取物开发的乳液具有保湿功效,可能是通过闭塞和保湿机制发挥作用,证明了其作为保湿化妆品的潜在用途。

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