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Remote sensing of the correlation between breakpoint oscillations and infragravity waves in the surf and swash zone

机译:遥感海浪和急流区的断点振荡和超重力波之间的相关性

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摘要

A novel remote sensing methodology to determine the dominant infragravity mechanism in the inner surf and swash zone in the field is presented. Video observations of the breakpoint motion are correlated with the shoreline motion and inner surf zone water levels to determine the relationship between the time-varying breakpoint oscillations and the shoreline motion. The results of 13 field data sets collected from three different beaches indicate that, inside the surf zone, the dominance of bound wave or breakpoint forcing is strongly dependent on the surf zone width and the type of short wave breaking. Infragravity generation by bound wave release was stronger for conditions with relatively narrow surf zones and plunging waves; breakpoint forcing was dominant for wider surf zones and spilling breaker conditions.
机译:提出了一种新颖的遥感方法,可以确定野外内旋和斜冲带中主要的重力作用机制。断点运动的视频观测与海岸线运动和内部冲浪区水位相关联,以确定随时间变化的断点振荡与海岸线运动之间的关系。从三个不同的海滩收集的13个现场数据集的结果表明,在冲浪区内部,约束波或断点强迫的优势在很大程度上取决于冲浪区的宽度和短波破碎的类型。在冲浪区域相对狭窄和波浪骤降的情况下,束缚波释放产生的重力较弱。对于较宽的冲浪区和溢出的冲击器条件,断点强制作用占主导地位。

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  • 作者

    Moura, T.; Baldock, T. E.;

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  • 年度 2017
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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
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